HVAC Training Blog

Just like any sort of appliance in your home, your plumbing system suffers wear and tear over time. Although the pipes and drains of a plumbing system are designed for durability, they still require regular care to keep them from aging too rapidly and needing numerous repairs and replacements. Qualified plumbers can help you keep your plumbing in the best shape possible through regular maintenance visits.

Even if you have a recently installed plumbing system with corrosion-resistant copper and PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) or CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) piping, you should schedule maintenance once a year.

Plumbing maintenance encompasses more than checking to see if your pipes have leaks or are suffering from corrosion. Maintenance also includes the major appliances you use on a daily basis, which can undergo significant stress during a year.

For example, your water heater is part of regular plumbing maintenance, and water heaters must have yearly inspections and tune-ups to make sure they work efficiently and correctly. You’ll need a new water heater long before you need new pipes, and maintenance technicians will be able to identify when it’s time to retire your current water heater.

Here are some preventative maintenance tips you can use:

Fix leaking faucets and showerheads. Dripping faucets can waste a lot of water and that can add to your bill. And if you don’t fix a dripping faucet or showerhead, the drip will get worse as time passes. Those problems could cause water damage. To avoid challenges, check your facets frequently for leakages and make maintenance as needed. Examine the handles to be sure no drinking water drips when the handles will be considered the off situation and check within the sinks for water staining or drips when the drinking water is running.

Unclog sluggish drains. When the drinking water is sluggish to drain there could be a trouble. Before it gets beyond control, use a homemade combination of vinegar and warm water to flush down the drain and unclog any particles. This preventative maintenance idea can be carried out every few weeks and can get the drain moving again.

Check all uncovered pipes and kitchen appliances for water leakages. Your disposal, refrigerator, or hot water heater can end up being the way to obtain a leak. Appear at any manufacturer’s requirements for keeping your kitchen appliances. Watch for obvious symptoms of a leak such as for example water stains on wall space and ceilings, or puddles of drinking water. Also be skeptical of mildew. Installing a drip tray underneath your water heater and washing machine can help limit damage if a leak were to occur.

Fix leaking toilets. Sometimes a faulty seal around the valve seat can cause your toilet to run even when it is not flushed. Over time, gunk will form around the valve seat and flapper. This gunk will prevent the flapper to seal properly, which will cause the water to continue to run. Another problem could be with the handle or tank stopper. The repair that is needed is often quick and economical maintenance.

Be careful everything you flush or pour down the drain! The trouble with drains and toilets can be that so a lot of things will get flushed down them. The simplest way to prevent problems with your pipes is to be careful what you flush or pour down them to begin with. Don’t flush anything other than toilet paper and human waste down the toilet. Don’t pour whatever could be reactive down the drain.

Check the drinking water pressure. Drinking water pressure is just how much power is appearing out of your faucets and shower heads. You can attempt the drinking water pressure on your program with a pressure gauge to be sure it really is at a secure level. An added preventative measure can be to include a pressure regulator to keep up your drinking water pressure at a secure level.

Remove and tidy your shower mind of any sediment that may include accumulated. This can enhance the drinking water pressure of your shower mind.

Drain your hot water heater to remove sediment yearly to semi-annually. As time passes your water heater will get sediment in it and be less effective.

Look in the burner chamber of your hot water heater. You shouldn’t find any flakes of corrosion within the chamber. And verify the flame of the hot water heater is usually a blue color without signs of yellowish in the flame. If you visit a yellow color, this might imply that the jets should be cleaned.

Examine the hoses for symptoms of cracks, brittleness, or leaking. Substitute your hoses as needed.

When you have a septic container, you ought to have it frequently inspected. Put pumping your septic container to your list as an important part of maintenance.

In case you have a sewer system, it is good to understand how your lines run and inspect for tree roots that could potentially damage your sewer lines. A preventative measure would be to have your sewer lines snaked periodically to avoid clogging.

Another reason for having plumbing maintenance done annually is usually that the consequences of failures in the water line or the sewer line can be immense. These are problems you want to avoid if at all possible, since they can cause damage to your home and the repair work can often be extensive.

Regular maintenance will catch small problems with either the water line or the sewer line on your property before they become large problems.

You can also purchase a water alarm and simply place the alarm next to a potential leak source. The alarm will give off a high-pitched sound when it comes into contact with water, much like a smoke cigarettes detector when there is a fire.

A qualified plumbing contractor will check your water heater, faucets, supply line, shut-off valves, toilets, drains, and home appliances such as washing machines and sump pumps. They will search for corrosion, leaks and blockages at every level.

Towards the end of a protection visit, your plumber should supply you with a set of ideas for fixes or advice that may help you continue to keep your house safe and sound from water and sewer damage.

Routine maintenance can help you and your plumber create a relationship which means you will both prepare yourself in case of an emergency.

Most persons are aware that when water pipes freezes, it expands. That’s why your forgotten can of soda in the freezer exploded. When drinking water freezes in a pipe, it will expand in the same way.

If it expands plenty of, it will burst, water will escape and serious damage may occur. A 1/8-in . crack in a pipe can spew up to 250 gallons of water in a day. But this is one disaster you can prevent by taking a few simple precautions.

Both plastic and copper pipes are susceptible to freezing. Tube freeze for a mixture of three reasons: a quick drop in temps, poor insulation and a thermostat that is set too low.

Water pipes in warmer climates may be more vulnerable to winter chilly spells, since the pipes are more likely to be situated in unprotected areas outside of the building insulation. Home owners can be proactive by identifying whether they have any plumbing items that need protection, and then ensuring that they provide that protection.

Pipes in attics, crawl areas and outside wall space are all vulnerable to freezing, especially if there are cracks or openings that allow chilly outside air to circulation across the pipes.

Research at the University of Illinois offers demonstrated that wind chill, the same cooling effect of atmosphere and wind that causes the human physique to lose heat, can play a major role in accelerating ice blockage, and thus, bursting water pipes.

Know where the drinking water cut-off valve is definitely situated in your home. Ensure that every dependable person in the home knows its location.

Remove, drain and cautiously store hoses used outdoors.

Keep garage doors shut if any drinking water lines are located inside.

Seal all openings where cool air can get at unprotected drinking water pipes. As mentioned above, it’s especially important to keep cold wind away from pipes.

Pipes in attics and crawl areas should be safeguarded with insulation or warmth. Pipe insulation is available in fiberglass or foam sleeves. Remember, the even more insulation you use, the better safeguarded your pipes will become.

During freezing weather, leave cabinet doors open up under kitchen or bathroom sinks (especially if they are located against an outside wall) to allow warmer room atmosphere to circulate around pipes. You may also place a little lamp with an incandescent bulb close to the pipes. Make sure to take out anything flammable from the area to prevent fires.

Let faucets drip slowly to keep water flowing through pipes that will be vulnerable to freezing. If the dripping stops, it may mean that ice is definitely blocking the pipe. Keep the faucet open up to assist in pressure relief.

Heating cables and tapes are effective for freeze security. Follow manufacturer’s directions closely when using these products.

Outside pipes and hose bibbs (outdoor faucets) should be drained or enclosed in 2-in . insulation sleeves.

When weather is very cool, keep thermostats at the same heat day and night. Lowered temperatures at night may contribute to colder attic temps and thus, more vulnerable pipes.

Apprentice plumber: An entry-level plumber, learning the trade. State requirements may include a high school diploma or GED, an aptitude test and that the applicant is 18 year of age or older. Apprentices may work with a journeyman, under the supervision of a master plumber.

Auger: A flexible metal rod, usually made of spring material, with a cutting or clearing device on one end. It is used to clear clogs in drains. Closet augers, also called toilet auger, have a tubular guide to permit entry through the toilet trap design. Larger, longer augers are used to clean underground drain lines and may be motor driven.

Copper piping: Water line made of copper or a copper alloy. Copper pipe is usually rigid; tubing is flexible. Copper will not rust and has a long life cycle, but it can corrode, especially at solder joints, which could cause leakage. It is primarily used for potable (drinkable) water.

CPVC: Chlorinated poly-vinyl chloride pipe, a type of plastic. CPVC can be used in both hot and cold potable water piping.

Discharge drain: A drain that discharges water into a drain system or into the ground through a channel. French drains are one example of a discharge drain.

Drain: The opening to a piping system that is used to remove wastewater from a fixture or system and transport it elsewhere for treatment or reuse. Most drains are open, but floor drains may have a protective grate over them.

Energy Star: An international standard for energy efficiency that originated in the United States. Electrical appliance must conform to certain standards in order to qualify. Dishwashers and washing machines are two of the appliances that can be Energy Star Rated.

Faucet screen: A small metal screen used to catch small debris in the water system, found in the faucet arm nozzle. Water hoses for washing machines may also have a screen to prevent debris from damaging the water valves.

Faucet: A sink fixture that controls water flow. Most sink faucets have a mixing valve that allows the user to modify the temperature of the water by changing the ratio of hot to cold. Faucets may come with either two handles, one for hot and one for cold, or with a single lever handle that changes the mix ratio.

Flapper: The hinged, movable part of a type of shut off valve that prevents or shuts off flow. A common type of flapper is found at the bottom of a toilet water tank. It is raised to start the flush cycle and closes when the tank is empty, allowing it to refill.

Float valve: A type of control valve that shuts off water at a predetermined level or capacity. A float valve controls the water in a toilet tank. One form of operation has a hollow ball, mounted by a connecting rod to the valve. As the ball rises with the water level, the valve closes until water flow is completely stopped.

Galvanized steel (piping): A type of steel water piping, coated with a zinc compound. The zinc acts as a sacrificial metal, slowing down the corrosion process.

Garbage disposal: An appliance attached to the drain system, usually under the kitchen sink, that chops up food waste, allowing easier flow through the drain system.

GPM: Gallons per minute. Usually used when describing how many gallons of water a fixture uses to operate.

Hose: A flexible rubber or plastic tube for carrying water. Garden hoses have special fittings to connect to the hose bibb and attachments.

Hose bibb: External or internal valved water fitting to which a water hose is connected. It is also called a spigot or faucet. Internal hose bibbs are found in the laundry area for washing machine hook up.

Journeyman: A plumber who has completed apprenticeship requirements. Ongoing training is still required, although more responsibility is given to the journeyman. Normally the journeyman must hold that license for 4 to 5 years before progressing to the master level.

Licensed, insured and bonded: Three business certifications that a plumbing service should have to do business. Licensed means that the plumber has passed regulatory requirements of the governing body. Insured means that the plumber has obtained insurance to cover employee injuries and damages on the jobsite. Bonded means that the plumber has obtained additional insurance through an outside agency in case of extenuating circumstances, like the company going out of business or an employee theft on the jobsite. Certain jobs, such as work being done for a government or state agency, require bonds.

Low-flow: A water fixture that produces a lower water flow at the outlet.

Main drainpipe: The piping where the dwelling’s drain piping system enters the septic system or underground drainpipe.

Master plumber: A plumber who has completed both the apprenticeship and journeyman phase. A master plumber usually has ten to fifteen years of experience and must pass a state plumbing exam, including tests on plumbing codes and practices. The master plumber is responsible for business operations, planning and bidding on plumbing jobs.

Outdoor faucet: A hose bibb located outside the home or building. The connection threads will usually be designed to accept hose fittings.

Overflow: A type of drain used to prevent overfilling of a fixture. For example, the small hole near the top of the bathroom sink connects to the sink drain, preventing the basin from flooding onto the floor.

P-trap: A sink drainpipe designed in the shape of a “P.” It runs from the sink and down through the floor to the main drain piping. The shape is designed to trap a small quantity of water in the pipe, preventing sewer odors from entering the dwelling. An S-trap is similar, but exits the room through the wall instead of the floor.

PEX (piping): A newer type of flexible tubing, used to replace the potable water piping in a dwelling or building. PEX tubing uses hose barb connections and compression rings, thus it requires less labor to install. It installs easily around corners, omitting the need for the elbow fittings needed when installing copper or galvanized piping.

pH: Potential of hydrogen. Measurement used to determine acidity or alkalinity in a given substance.

Pilot light: A small gas flame used to ignite a larger burner when a gas valve is turned on. If the pilot is always lit, it is called a standing pilot. On demand pilots are ignited by a sparking device when needed.

Pipe threads: A spiral flute cut into the end of a pipe, allowing pipes to be coupled to fixture or pipe couplings. Pipe threads should have Teflon pipe tape, pipe thread compound or a combination of both applied to the threads to prevent leakage under pressure.

Plumber: A technician that specializes in plumbing installation and repairs. Plumbers are usually licensed by the state or other governing authority, have been educated in various aspects of the plumbing industry and are qualified to make repairs or handle new installations. Plumbers may work on all types of plumbing or may specialize in certain areas, such as residential, commercial or industrial plumbing. They should be licensed, bonded and insured.

Plunger: A cupped, suction device on a handle that is used to clear a clogged drain.

PPM: Parts per million. Used as a measurement of concentration.

Pressure gauge: A measuring device used to determine the pressure in a piping system.

Pressure tank: Part of a well pump assembly that reserves water for use. The tank contains a bladder that puts pressure on the water in the tank. When a faucet or spigot is opened, the pressure forces the water through the piping. Through gauges and switches, the tank monitors the water pressure and starts the pump when pressure lowers to a predetermined level. When the valve is closed, the pump continues until the water has reached the upper pressure limit.

PSI: Pounds per square inch. Used as a measurement of pressure inside a given object.

Rain barrel: A tank or container used to collect rainwater or roof runoff water for various uses.

Reset button (garbage disposal): A button on the bottom of the garbage disposal used to reset an overload device on the disposal. The overload trips when the disposal becomes locked up, preventing motor damage and potential fire hazards.

Sanitary sewer system: The system of drain piping that carries wastewater from the dwelling’s sinks, tubs and toilets to the city or municipality sewer system.

Septic field: The system of pipes that discharge bacterially treated wastewater from the septic tank and discharges it into the soil for natural decontamination.

Septic system: The complete system of sewage removal, including the septic field, septic tank and associated piping. There is no connection to a municipality or commercial sewer system.

Septic tank: An underground tank wherein sewage is broken down in an anaerobic bacterial process. Usually composed of two chambers, the septic tank receives the wastewater from the dwelling in the first chamber, which allows the solids to settle to the bottom. The liquid component of the wastewater flows into the second chamber, where further settling takes place. Water then flows into the piping of the septic field, where it is absorbed into the ground and naturally filtered and cleaned.

Sewer connection: The place where a dwelling sanitary sewer system connects to the city or municipality sewer system.

Shutoff valve: Any piping valve that stops the flow of water in the pipe. Water meter shutoff valves are located underground in a cabinet and use a quarter turn valve rotation. Shutoff valves in the home are usually found under the sink or beside the toilet to shut off water supplied to those fixtures and faucets. They are usually a gate valve that requires several turns to fully close.

Sink basin: The bowl of the sink. Many kitchen sink basins are comprised of two connected basins to allow for washing and rinsing. Bathroom sink basins will include an overflow drain in their design, molded onto the underside of the basin.

Sink plunger: A type of small plunger that fits over a sink drain, used to unstop clogs.

Solar water heater: A water heating system that uses piping that is coiled through heat collectors on the roof. An energy saving device, solar water heaters use the sun for all or part of the water heating process and can be tied into a conventional water heater for backup.

Spigot: A common term for a hose bibb.

Storm water sewer system: A drainage system, separated from the main sewer system, that collects rain and runoff water and transports it to a natural water source. This water contains no sewage and does not need to be treated.

Sump pump: A pump used to remove water from a collection pit.

Tank: A water holding container that reserves a portion of the water supply for future, anticipated use. Toilet tanks hold water for the flush cycle. Water heater tanks reserve heated water for future use.

Tankless water heater: A newer style of water heater that does not contain a holding tank. Water is heated on demand after the unit detects water flow. These units are usually heated by natural gas burners.

Toilet plunger: A plunger with a flexible end, shaped to be inserted into the drain at the bottom of the bowl. This increases efficiency.

Touchless faucet: A faucet that does not require the user to turn handles to use. The valve is electrically operated and is controlled by a motion sensor or photo eye.

Vent stack: Also called vent pipes. These pipes permit equalization of the pressure in the drain system with the atmospheric pressure. This prevents vacuum conditions that can interfere with the natural flow of the drain piping. The pressure on both sides of drain traps is equalized, assisting in proper flow.

Wastewater: Any water that is used in a process or sewer system becomes wastewater or graywater and must be treated before reuse.

Water heater gauge: Gauges used to indicate either the temperature or the pressure of water in a water heater, or both.

Water heater: An appliance used to raise the water temperature in a water system.

Water meter: A gauge used to measure the amount of water flow in a system, measured in gallons.

Water pressure: The amount of force, measured in pounds per square inch, that a water system produces.

Water softener: An appliance designed to remove hardness chemicals, such as calcium, from the potable water supply.

Water supply: The potable water supplied to a residence or commercial building.

Well pump: A pump used to pull water from an underground natural water supply.